Sunday, August 2, 2015

Burdastyle Maternity Dress

I haven't had much time for sewing lately. But, I did manage to get a jersey maternity dress sewed up. I'm at 14 weeks and starting to show. Many of my pants and other dresses are starting to get a little too tight, so this dress is perfect.


Pattern

Burdastyle V-Neck Empire Waisted Maternity Dress 01/2015 #121
(What a long name for a pattern!)


Material

I used a really stretchy jersey knit that I found at a local fabric store. It has about 70% stretch in one direction and 50% stretch in the other. It's really soft and has a fluid drape.

Alterations

The pattern is meant for a woven non-stretch fabrics (eg. crepe satin). So, I had to make a number of alterations.


Usually, I am a size 42 in Burda patterns. So, I traced a size 44 with no seam allowances. I was being a little risky here, but figured there was a great chance that I would have more than enough fabric in my pieces because it was so stretchy.

I found that I had plenty of fabric in the bodice. I ended up sewing 1" seam allowances on the shoulder seam. This made the bodice land at the right spot (somewhere below the bust and a bit above wear my disappearing waist).

I also sewed a 1" seam allowance under the arms and graded it to a 1/2" seam allowance at the elastic waist. I continued with a 1/2" seam allowance for the skirt to keep all the fullness I could. I mainly sewed a 1" seam allowance under the arm because I didn't like how much the armhole would have gaped.

Another alteration was to sew strips for edging at the neckline and armholes. It just seemed like what would keep such a stretchy jersey stable in those places. It works and I really like the look.

I also cut the back piece on the fold instead of cutting out two separate back pieces.


Alterations that I made for more for style, rather than the stretchy fabric are:

- Widening and lengthening the ties - I can tie it in the front, instead of having a knot of fabric in my back when I'm sitting in a chair;

- Making the skirt more of an A-line instead of a straight skirt - I did this by grading out from the waist to about an extra 6" at the bottom sides of both the front and back pattern pieces.;

- Overlapping the front faux wrap pieces by an extra inch - this made the neckline sit a little higher, which provides better coverage and looks more current to me.

I didn't have  to draft my own pockets for once. The pattern already had them - yay!



I love how flowy and comfortable this dress is. I think it's the best dress that I've sewn yet. It's great in the hot weather and I plan to pair it with leggings in the fall. I will also be able to wear it next year as will be great for nursing.

3 comments:

  1. That looks great! I like your design choices. Hope the pregnancy is going well. I thought the second trimester was the best as far as how I felt.

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  2. I wish I'd known there were maternity clothes in that issue! Looks good.

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