Sunday, January 18, 2015

Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans

I made myself a new pair of jeans! The Closet Case Files pattern came out just in time. I have worn out my other me-made jeans (they were so comfortable that I wore them all the time), so now I need more. This lovely pattern is going to fill that void.


Materials:

  • Denim with stretch (2% spandex)
  • Lining fabric (cotton left over from my Belcarra)
  • Regular and top-stitching thread
  • Button and zipper
  • Interfacing




Pattern

Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans Sewalong by Closet Case Files

The sewalong made following the steps really easy. All of the pictures are great. The pattern itself is well done. I love it!

I did some top-stitching on my pair, but mostly for appearance. My machine was giving me lots of troubles. I had to turn my tension all the way up to get it to 'work' (even with size 100 top-stitching needles). I have since vacuumed out my machine, so maybe it will work if I try it again. If not, I may not make jeans with fancy top-stitching thread in the future (booo).


I made View B with the high waist. I also added the tummy control pockets (they work!).


Adjustments

I made size 10 (my size according to the measurement chart) with some adjustments:

  • I shortened the length (too much though - I have to go back and add some fabric back)
  • I scooped a little bit out of the back crotch curve 
  • I added some fabric to hips and inseam on the back pattern piece for full thighs (might need to add a little more)
  • Moved the pockets up 7/8" (I just noticed they are maybe a little too far out to the sides)
  • Large calf adjustment

To figure out what size and adjustments I needed, this is the process I followed:

  • Analyse your figure (where do you usually have issues? for me, it's my calves and thighs)
  • Measure yourself and RTW pants that fit (or are close)
  • Figure out your crotch curve (a flexible ruler helps)
  • Compare your measurements and curve to the pattern
  • Make all your adjustments before you make your muslin or first pair
Do this, and you will be ahead on addressing any fitting issues. In the past, I was confused with what to do with my measurements (ie. where on the pattern do I compare them to?). I have finally figured it out, so maybe I'll do a walkthrough on how to do this (if only for my benefit).

For the most part, I followed this advice for making this pair of Gingers. But, I didn't take the time to do a calf adjustment beforehand and now I'm paying the price. I had to sew a 1/8" seam allowance (!) on the back leg pieces starting at about 15" from the hem. I thought there would be enough fabric in the seam allowance to do this adjustment and didn't even bother to measure the pattern. Lesson learned. 


Overall, I did manage to save the jeans. While there are still back knee wrinkles, they are much less than on most RTW jeans I own. Hopefully, they will hold up with such small seam allowances.



The jeans look good from the front. My next pair will be even better. For now, I'm going to enjoy this pair. They are so comfortable!


4 comments:

  1. Those are truly impressive! You're making me want to try jeans! Thanks for the fitting tips. That's something I haven't learned yet.

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  2. Wow! These look great!
    I've only used Burda jeans patterns before, but will put this one on my list.
    We're lucky in Canada to have some really good indie pattern companies.
    Question...did you use the regular or lower rise pattern?

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