Sunday, September 21, 2014

Burdastyle 08/2011 #102

I've made myself a new jacket! A fall jacket like I've been wanting for sometime. I'm not sure exactly what kind of jacket it is, but I've seen the names 'field jacket' and 'cargo jacket' used. Believe it or not, I used the same pattern as my winter jacket just with some alterations.


Materials:
  • Menorca Plain stretch fabric (97% cotton, 3% spandex)
  • Polyester lining
  • Lots of heavy duty snaps
  • Bias tape
  • Interfacing
  • Thread
  • 10mm elastic



I wanted to use some sort of twill fabric, but I couldn't find any in olive. The only fabric I found was this cotton stretch fabric. I think it ended up working quite well, but there were challenges. My sewing machine had some trouble sewing it and I had tension problems. The right combination seemed to be universal needles (80/12 for most of it and larger for thick seams), a walking foot, and turning the thread tension to near max.


Pattern

A somewhat altered version of Burdastyle 08/2011 #102. Size alterations were super easy, since I just copied what I did with my winter jacket. Basically, a swayback adjustment and a small bust adjustment. I made a size 40, but could have gone a size down because of the stretch fabric. I ended up taking in the sleeve widths a bit.



Some of the styling alterations I made were to create a separate facing. I cut along the centre front line of the front bodice to do this.


I also created a top front yoke piece by attaching the side and front bodice pieces for the first ~4" and then cutting them along perpendicular to the centre front seam.


The style of jacket I am imitating, as well as jean jackets, use this piece to sew the top pocket flaps into. Here are the pieces partially assembled.


And here is what it all looks like on the finished jacket. It's funny, now that I've done this, I've realized how many jackets have this styling feature and it is really easy to do.


I also changed the epaulette slightly to a shorter version that doesn't double back onto itself. You may also notice that I added shoulder pleats. For some reason, I had way too much sleeve cap ease (maybe I added too much seam allowance to my pattern pieces - the Burdastyle pattern doesn't come with seam allowances). I decided to work with it and created a box pleat on each shoulder that lines up with where the epaulette meets the shoulder seam. Not the look I wanted, but it's growing on me.


I made my own pocket patterns from another jacket that I really loved and that this jacket is replacing. I like them more than the pockets that come with the pattern.


As with the winter jacket, I added a hood. This hood is attached with four snaps along the back of the collar.


I wanted to keep the jacket light and make use of the stretch fabric's stretchiness. If I used a non-stretch lining, then the jacket wouldn't stretch much. So, I only lined the sleeves (you might recall the lining fabric from my winter jacket). A tutorial of a similar thing can be found on the blog Purls and Pleats.

I kept the rest unlined and used flat felled seams and bias tape to finish my seams. For the top back yoke, I used two layers of fabric, which I sometimes see done on dress shirts. This added a bit of stability to this area, it helped hide the tops of the princess seams and the centre back seam, and it made it possible for me to have the epaulette snaps attach only to the top layer and not sit directly on my shoulders.


The last major change was to add a casing for a waistband elastic. I sewed a 3/4" piece along the waist and threaded 10mm (3/8") elastic into it. I went this route because I couldn't find any olive coloured (or even a nice pink) drawstring and I still wanted to have something to pull in the extra ease from using the stretch fabric.

Here is the hood in action. It has a touch of the pink bias tape peeking out.


Overall, I'm very happy with the jacket. It's very light and I love the colour. It's very easy to dress up and down.


Here is the back with the hood detached. I'm ready for fall!


I love this style of jacket and if you like it, it's really easy to take any pattern and make one yourself. For example, someone made a military style Sewaholic Minoru on the blog Cut Cut Sew. It's all about the olive colour and the pockets.

12 comments:

  1. Wow - great job! I really wish you guys lived closer - I'd steal you away for some fitting/alterations lessons ;)

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    1. And I would be totally happy to help - maybe if I move back there someday. haha

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  2. This is really really nice! I love the hot pink accents in the interior as well. Looks very well made and RTW!

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  3. So lovely! I love the color and style and it seems like you got the fit perfect!

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    1. Thanks Kristin! The fit was definitely easy since I just reused another pattern that I spent a lot of time fitting.

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  4. Wow. You rock! Seriously, this is amazing. I would not know how to do all that, but it gives me something to aspire to someday. I love the jacket. It looks great on you, and is really professional.

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