Friday, June 6, 2014

Sewaholic Renfrew 2

I had some more knit fabric left from my trip to Tucson, so I jumped right in to making another Renfrew top.


Materials:
  • Jersey knit
  • Thread 
  • Bias Tape (in lieu of stay tape) 

Pattern

Sewaholic Renfrew

As with my first Renfrew, I made a size 6 (I am a size 10 according to the measurement chart). Size 6 in this material was a little snug. A size 8 would have been better. A size 6 worked fine for my first Renfrew, as that fabric was stretchier.

I compared the two fabrics and the grey fabric stretches an amazing 100% (a 4" piece can be stretched to 8"). This blue fabric is still very stretchy, but not as much. It stretches about 50% (a 4" piece stretches to 6"). So, if I am using a more stable knit, I am closer to what the pattern envelop says. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it.


Alterations

Like with my first Renfrew, I used bias tape in place of stay tape.

I made a few alterations after analysing my other Renfrew. I made a swayback adjustment of about 1", which stopped the pooling of fabric at my back.

I also altered the armhole to stop the wrinkling under the armpits and across the top of the bust. I scooped out 3/4" on the front and back underarms. I also added a small bit just above this that sticks out 1/8" at most (see picture below). Basically, this straightens out the armhole and makes it more like an RTW t-shirt.



I then had to measure the new armhole seams to figure out if I needed to lengthen the sleeve cap seam length. I measured that I needed 8mm (about 3/8") each for the front and the back. At about 2" from the top of the sleeve, I slashed the pattern piece to the bottom centre and spread. This is what it looked like:


Here is a closer up view:



That did the trick. My armpit is no longer 'winking' at everyone and the shirt is more comfortable. Now, I only have a few wrinkles here and there that are more like 'normal' t-shirt wrinkles.


I love this Renfrew and want to wear it all the time!

1 comment: