Saturday, May 24, 2014

Burdastyle 03/2013 #104 Trousers

This latest project was a big one! I wanted to make some simple ankle pants using Burdastyle 03/2013 #104, but it took a lot longer than I thought it would.


Materials:
  • Cotton Stretch Sateen (with spandex)
  • Thread
  • Interfacing
  • Zipper 
  • Button
  • Bias tape 
All from my stash!

Pattern

Burdastyle 03/2013 #104

I chose this pattern because it looks rather simple (and it is). What made it super difficult was the fabric I used. There is simply too much stretch in this sateen! Even though I used my regular Burdastyle size (size 40) and the pattern mentions that you can have some stretch, I just had too much.

I spent hours and hours (about 16 hours I figure) trying to get the crotch curve right and trying to get rid of wrinkles. For the most part, I succeeded. But, the wrinkles all come back with wear.

To be honest with how the pants look, all of my pictures are taken after I wore the pants to work for a day.



The front isn't too bad. Just some wrinkles from sitting. 


The back is very wrinkled. After trying to get them to disappear, I decided to just live with them (most RTW pants are wrinkly, too).

[Update: I just remembered that, when first assembling the pants, there wasn't any ease in the back inseam for me to work in (unlike the instructions say to do). It is possible that the stretchiness of the fabric and/or improperly located pattern marks made this happen. This might be why I have extra back wrinkles.]

Alterations

With this stretch fabric, there was too much ease. I ended up making the seam allowances about 1.5" on the side seams and inside leg seam! It just keeps stretching and stretching!


I added a waistband so the pants would stay on better. With wear, they stretch out even more! The waistband helps keeps the pants in place. As you might tell from the photo above, the waistband also loosens with wear (even though it is interfaced), so I might go back and add twill tape to it.


I also added patch pockets on the back. I'm proud of how they turned out.

Overall, the pants are super comfortable and most people probably don't notice the wrinkles. The wrinkles aren't as obvious when I'm moving around. I've decided to live with them.

While the fabric was a big pain in (and around) my butt, it really is lovely to look at and touch. It has a nice sheen that doesn't come though the pictures.

What I Learned

Sometimes I waste too much time fitting. I think us sewers can get a little obsessed with the little things. My pants crotch looked good after about an hour of fitting and yet, I kept fiddling with it (and maybe made it slightly worse!).

Also, I should probably avoid fabric with so much spandex, unless I use a pattern specifically made for it.

What do you out there think of my pants? Did I horrify you with all of my wrinkles?


4 comments:

  1. I think they look professional! Don't be hard on yourself--you see the things you wish were different, but we don't. They look great. Nice color, too.

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    1. Thanks Ip! I love the colour, too (my favourite).

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  2. I actually really like them! It's not possible to have pants without wrinkles, otherwise we wouldn't be able to walk in them. Out of curiosity, what was the spandex content of the fabric you used? I'm looking to make some pants with stretch but am wary of them stretching wayyy out of shape.

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    Replies
    1. I bought it a year ago and can't be certain, but I think it was 2 or 3% spandex. I've since read that using 3% is usually difficult and that some 2% can be tricky, too. I guess we could always do a rudimentary stretch test in the store (measure a section and see how far it stretches, like so: http://oregon.4h.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/StretchGuide.pdf).

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